Ultimate Guide To Derma Rolling

Derma rollers are small cylindrical devices with anywhere from 180-1000 needles that you run across your face.

Derma rolling is a relatively new but popular cosmetic procedure used for skin regeneration and treatment of various skin conditions such as scarring, wrinkles and stretch marks.

Studies have shown significant improvement in the appearance of wrinkles and scars following microneedling, due to collagen and elastic fibre production that help the skin become more “filled out”.

Derma rolling creates numerous micro-punctures through the skin with minimal damage to the upper epidermal layer, but microscopic injury to the deeper dermal layer. The injury and minor bleeding trigger a “wound-healing” cascade in the skin. This results in increased collagen and elastin (elastic fibers) production and some degree of repair.


Derma rolling has been found to be effective at promoting collagen.

Collagen makes 80% of your skin and is vital to preventing wrinkles by keeping the skin smooth and elastic. As you grow older, you will produce less collagen so collagen supplementation is vital for ageing prevention. 

As you age your collagen declines. The overall collagen content per unit area of the skin surface is known to decline approximately 1%/year


What you do after rolling is vital to getting the best results. After rolling, the skin may: be red for a couple hours; feel like a sunburn; feel like your face is pulsing and the blood is circulating.

After derma rolling, your skin has greater absorption of skincare products. To take your results to the next level, use products that focus on hydrating, healing, and increasing collagen production. The single best thing you can do post-rolling is to use a sheet mask.

Sheets masks with ingredients like 

  • Vitamin C (either ascorbic acid or sodium ascorbyl phospate)
  • Niacinamide
  • Hyaluronic Acid (HA)


    Do not use the following products for 24 hours after derma rolling:

    • Alpha Hydroxy Acids: citric acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid 
    • Beta Hydroxy Acids:  Salicylic acid.
    • Fragrance
    • Phenol
    • Preservatives
    • Hydroquinone
    • Parabens


    1. Use a gentle pressure.

    Do not force it. Be gentle with the procedure. Do not dig the needles into your skin. 

    2. You do not want to see a lot of bleeding. 

    Trust us, you do not want to see much bleeding with a 0.5mm roller.  Many people think that lots of bleeding means you will get good results. It dosen't! You should not see any blood with a 0.25mm roller and only a little bit of blood with a 0.5mm roller.

    3. If you hate pain, then use a numbing cream. 

    Go to your chemist and ask for a topical numbing cream. Numbing cream consists lidocaine, which makes the area numb that you apply it on. Lidocaine is used as local anaesthetic. It is good to remember to wait for the cream to absorb for a bit before doing the derma-rolling procedure itself.

    • Before applying the cream itself, make sure you firstly cleanse your skin thoroughly. Pat your skin dry with a towel. 
    • Apply only a thin layer of the cream on your face. Do not cover you face with anything.
    • Wait about 15 to 20 minutes before the derma-rolling procedure. After that wipe the cream off your face.

    In case you are pregnant, planning to become pregnant or currently breast-feeding then the cream is also not advised to use. It is not advised to use numbing cream while being on prescription medicine as well. Otherwise you should be perfectly able to use the numbing cream without any difficulties.

    4. Never use a dirty derma roller.

    Disinfect your derma roller by letting it soak in 70 percent isopropyl alcohol for approximately 5 to 10 minutes before using it, every time.

    5. Avoid the following ingredients for 24 hours:

    • Alpha Hydroxy Acids: citric acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid 
    • Beta Hydroxy Acids:  Salicylic acid.
    • Fragrance
    • Phenol
    • Preservatives
    • Hydroquinone
    • Parabens

    6. Do not use a derma roller daily

    In terms of derma rollers, the more treatments, is not better. 

    You can use a 0.5 roller every 4 - 6 weeks. We recommend doing it once a month. Have a spot in your calendar to relax with your derma roller.

    You can only use a 0.25 or 0.3 derma roller every "other" day.

    7. Avoid rolling in the shaded area, which represents the orbital (eye sockets) area.

    Do not use a derma roller on the upper eye lids. Your upper eye lids are very delicate so do not use it on them.

    8. Wear medical-grade gloves

    Make sure you wash your hands thoroughly and put on medical-grade gloves to reduce the chances of infection.